It's not a world's first. Functional T Gauge switches have already been
exhibited at Japanese toy shows. But they don't look like this. Granted, it isn't the most realistic thing in the world, but it doesn't look like a tinplate toy, either.


It wasn't as hard to make as I thought it would be. One reason is the rail: code 40 steel alloy rail is durable and yet easy to work. I also made the switch using sectional track; thus it's very short, and short, stubby turnouts are easier to make than long, slender ones.
Alas, it would not serve as a manufacturing prototype. It has too many parts, many of which cannot easily be mass-produced. But it ought to serve as a focal point for discussion amongst fellow T-nuts. Here's how I made it:

First, I marked out the intersection point where a straight piece of roadbed track overlapped a curved section. This intersection point was sliced away from the side of the roadbed until the cutouts met the point where the rails intersected.

I cut the rails with a diamond cutter in a Dremel tool, and removed the excess rail by simply pulling on it with pliers. Then I continued to slice away the roadbed until the two parts fit together precisely.

I was tempted to bond the two parts right then and there, but thankfully I held off, because it was much easier removing the "spikes" and tie detail from the space where the points would move while the halves were separate. Once the point area was clear, I then bonded the parts, adding a reinforcing place on the underside.

After marking the stock rails where the points would meet, I slid them out and ground away relief areas for the points with the diamond wheel, then slid them back in place. (Sliding the rails in and out of the roadbed causes them to loosen a little, so once each rail was the right shape, I secured them with CA.)

Next, I marked the roadbed with the rail sections that were removed. Once I determined where the points would pivot, I drilled holes for short bits of thin-walled brass tubing. I ground a tiny flat in the end of a length of .030 steel wire, and soldered a piece of the leftover rail to the flat area with silver solder.

Once I'd cleaned away the excess solder and polished the parts with a wire brush in the Dremel tool, I dropped the assembly into the corresponding brass tubing and marked where the point need to be ground.

The points were shaped with the diamond wheel, very slowly and very carefully—the steel alloy is fairly soft, and grinds away quickly. I almost ground off too much every time. I was unusually lucky with this project, as I did not need to make any part twice.

Next up was the frog. I was tempted to make the point from styrene, but I wanted better durability, as well as better appearance, so I found a scrap of nickel sheet about .040 thick, and I tapered one corner to a sharp point with the diamond wheel. When I was satisfied with its shape, I clipped it off the sheet with a flush cutters, and proceeded to keep trimming away a few thousandths at a time until it was exactly the right size.

One problem with attaching this part to the frog was the fact that the styrene in the area was uneven, so I filled it in with some Squadron putty, and it sanded down to make a nice smooth platform. Then I bonded the ever-so-tiny frog part in place with thick CA. I'd contemplated soldering a wire to it to power it, but decided it wouldn't be enough to make or break performance.

From there it was a relatively simple matter of shaping the last two rail parts; to the base of each of these rails I soldered a piece of fine steel wire so that I could power them. In order to de-emphasize the gross size of the parts, I tapered the frog wing rails and guard rails, rather than flare them. I also made them all as short as possible. I fabricated all of these parts by eye, using no jigs or measuring tools. The latitude in tolerances is actually no finer for T than Z scale, because the wheel treads are so wide.

The very last step was deciding how to move the points. I'd pretty much dismissed any notion of making a conventional throwbar. I intuitively wanted to use the steel pins to move the points. I've not yet built a mechanism to throw the points either manually or by remove; this is just a "formality" after having finished the hardest part of building the switch.
Stay tuned for a video of trains running through the switch. It will probably take almost as long to set up the demo as it did to build the switch in the first place.